Art: Resin Kit Tutorial ,new stuff 4/1/2011 - Page 5
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  1. #121
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    That's great Bat-fink,

    Thanks for the update, let me know either here, PM or email me when you know more about shipping costs, or if it turns out you've ordered more than you need, I'll happily buy some off you.

    Sorry about the slight thread hi-jack Kent, looking forward to seeing some more of your work, you going to be posting pics of the relief and the other project anytime soon?

    Adam.

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  2. #122
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    hey monkeywiz, hijack away the looser that started this thread has been slow to add stuff so i say lets add stuff!I think you will have his support..8)

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  3. #123
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    here is something from back in my bronze era , if I had a million dollar back yard budget like this female client did . ... oh the logic and selflessness of the super rich, may they get a painfull rash on there nethers .I also attached that relief you mentioned .

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    Last edited by kent kidwell; July 29th, 2008 at 03:06 AM.
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  4. #124
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    Wow! I just found this and it is quite excellent. Even though I don't sculpt this is really interesting, and now I may even have to try sculpting some time.
    Thank you for this.
    And BTW the bronze items you just posted are amazing.

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  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by kent kidwell View Post
    here is something from back in my bronze era , if I had a million dollar back yard budget like this female client did . ... oh the logic and selflessness of the super rich, may they get a painfull rash on there nethers
    LOL. On the other hand, if there were no super-rich, there would be far fewer lucrative "fine" art commissions.

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  6. #126
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    too true llamarche. we need each other.
    and thanks savagetoast..

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  7. #127
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    SILICONE CASTING of Super Sculpey ??

    Hi, i got 3 questions re silicone casting...

    Q1, Is it safe to cast super sculpey ? Both cured and uncured ?

    Q2, Has anyone ever cast an acrylic painted sculpture? I have made 5 sculpts from super sculpey, baked then painted them. Now i want to cast them but dont know if its possible.

    Q3, Can i cast silicone over a built up sculpture by building up silicone in layers then applying a jacket mould?

    I have some sculpts that are pre ready built, but want to make moulds of them with out cutting up my sculpture. Is it possible to brush silicone over the sculpt?

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  8. #128
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    Q1: yes, spray with mold release before putting rubber on it. Uncured sculpy can be easy to damage if you are attempting a two or more part mold.
    Q2: yes, again release agent. Keep in mind the painting may soften the fine edges and details.
    Q3: yes, talk to the fine folks at the Complete Sculptor and the can recommend a rubber for you to use.

    Garyo

    'I felt like a monster reincarnation of Horaito Alger and just sick enough to be totally confident.' - Hunter S Thompson
    http://www.greenwhiskerworks.com Have your pet immortalized!
    http://www.chiselandmold.com
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  9. #129
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    Just keep in mind the fact that you need to get the mold off the sculpt again after the silicone cures (it sounds silly but it's a surprisingly common oversight from what I've heard), which is usually why people cut their sculpts up to reduce undercuts and simplify mold designs.

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  10. #130
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    some sage advice from garyo..

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    Cow Thanks Guys!!!

    Hey, thanks for all your help and advice fellas.

    Unfortunately, i bookmarked the previous page and didnt know about your responses in time. I have painted layers of rubber onto a test model, but have not taken it from the mould yet. I did not know about the release agent in time so i got a feeling the mould will be torn apart as it is only about 5 millimetres thick. Ant suggestions before i attempt to free it from the mould?

    Also, a quick question about resin. All these resin fillers you can buy to bulk up the resin saving money and resin seem a little expensive themselves. Is it possible to just use sand?

    And is it possible to just paint resin into a mould rather than have it solid resin?
    kinda a hollow shell as it were. ?

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  12. #132
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    hey bat fink ,
    sorry to hear we were late to the party . you may be suprised however at how well silicon , if it is silicon we are talking about , will probably pull from the master . unless your master is pourus like cement or a stone , that will catch the rubber on a micro level and ruin your casting. just slowly pull the rubber from your casting you may see small hairlike catches just use an exacto to nip them as close to the master that you can get . you can use sand but the more you add the less runny it will be and the less likely it will get in all the detail . unless this is a very smooth peice , I have used smooth ground concrete mortar pigment from masonry stores that worked ok It does change the appearance of the resin but you have a choice of colors .just do small test runs with whatever you are looking at and see how it works ..I would use finer grinds then sand , but sand will go int it but the result may suck.
    about painting the resin into mold, of its a one sided mold you can do a slush style mold meaning you pour it in and slush it around until it cures . roto cstings are done buy putting in a small amount of resin and it spins very fast in all directions creating a shell . it can be done but if you are going to try this by hand I think you will have poor results . can we see a pic of the piece before you commit to a process ?

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  13. #133
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    I actually have been roto casting the rocketships by hand. It can be done, it takes a bit of experimentation and strong arms. You have to use a slow setting resin like smooth-on 315 and you have to slowly rock and rotate it till it starts to get rubbery and do it in very thin coats. The rocket takes three pours and ends up about 1/8th of an inch thick. It saves $$ on resin, but it also takes me about a hour and a half to make one casting and about one in 4 castings is bad. So thats two more pennys from me

    'I felt like a monster reincarnation of Horaito Alger and just sick enough to be totally confident.' - Hunter S Thompson
    http://www.greenwhiskerworks.com Have your pet immortalized!
    http://www.chiselandmold.com
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  14. #134
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    Question Thanks again!

    Thanks again for your help here.

    I would gladly put up a few pics on here, but im not sure how to put one up...
    Any clues?

    Im gonna try insert an image from my myspace of one of my sculpts... If it works ignore what i just said.

    Here goes....

    http://a336.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...8318946e77.jpg



    This is chavante clay, and when done will be for sale too if it works out. I tryed peeling the rubber off my last test model, and was surprized at how strong the silicone was, adding bandages to the mould was a great idea.

    I did however experience a lot of pinching you mentioned. And a small hole appeared in a thin part of the silicone! Any tips on repairing holes in silicone? or do i have to start over?



    Last edited by bat-fink; August 1st, 2007 at 02:50 PM.
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  15. #135
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    Im not sure what you used as a mother mold but do you mean the rubber when peeled away created a pinhole opening in the mold itself ? I just dont want to throw you poor advice and worsen the problem . If that is the case however I would try and put the rubber back on the master as tight as you can make it against the surface. if possible . I would then add silicon to the backside of the rubber at the hole . make sure you mark the spot where the hole resides when placed into the mother mold and grind away a little of the mother mold in the area you added rubber , otherwise your mother mold will not come together with the rubber tightly . I have had this happen before and this should solve the problem if I am understanding you correctly.always remember you are messing with a tight fit so dont screw with the natural glovelike fit , this is a delicate thing I am telling you ,make sure you understand what I am saying before doing it . I was able to pull up those pics ok in your myspace . if you want to add pics directly to this space . reduce your pics in size to 3 inches and then go to attach above , brows for that reduced image and upload it direct from your computer file . thats all there is to it . would you mind sending pics of your current mold . Thanks
    kent

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  16. #136
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks kent, Yep, you were right about a hole in the silicone. Its actually for a diffrent mould for a diffrent sculpt. The frankenstein pics are my next mold making project (one i need to get perfect).

    I was mainly wondering as far as the hole goes in the current silicon if more silicon can be added to repair holes, i didnt know if silicon would stick to its fully cured self. But you answered that question for me.

    I almost contemplated trying out bathroom silicon sealant to repair the hole. Would this work do you think? The hole is only about 1cm radius and is in an unimportant area. My test sculpt which i will photograph asap, is of a Fat spiderman lazing on a sofa. The hole is just under the arm of the sofa.

    My next dilema, is when i try out my resin for the first time, is using a suitable mould release agent. I quite fancy using a spray, can you recomend a cheap effective brand name? I read about mixing vaseline with alcohol, and brushing it on, but im worried i might capture the vaseline detail in the mould, a bit risky maybe.

    Regarding pics, i will have a go at that as soon as i get em off my camera. Thanks for your sage advice. So glad i found this site! It is awsome, and you are very helpfull.

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  17. #137
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    hey bat fink , I use as a release ajent a liquid vasaline but I mix with acetone 1 part vasaline to 10 parts acetone . it works very well . the acetone vanishes leaving an ultra fine layer of vasaline behind ,I use it in an ultra fine spritser bottle that mists it in . I the use a soft brush to go over the whole surface . I believe many solvants will do the same thin as long as it easily evaporates .there are other release ajents out there that may work better for your typ of silicon check with the manufacturer before doing the vasaline thing .manufactururs believe it or not have done all this testing on there products and will be able to tell you the best material to use .

    as for regular silicone (Calk) attaching itself to silicon it dose work but its very crude very messy and takes a while to cure I have seen larger molds for lifesize pieces where that stinky crap were used to thicken the mold inexpensively. I imagine its shelf life is horrible and I would never use it but that is your choice on that.maybe some of the viewers here have used it with great success its really untested for me but may be just the thing.

    a trick to ensure new silicone will adhere to cured silicone clean the area very well with acetone first this will remove greasy finger prints and mold release that could weaken the attachement of uncured rubber, happy molding ....

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  18. #138
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    Really amazing thread! Incredible sculpts! Do you have a personal website?

    My Sketchbook

    Life is a long lesson in humility.
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  20. #140
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    Hey Bat ,
    some cool sculpts you got there. I love the joker .

    stalsby,

    Still under construction but here you go ..
    www.kidwellconcepts.com

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    Thanks man, took a look at your website too. Awsome stuff also. Love your mounted rider, whats that sculpted from? i see its all diffrent colors. Wax ?

    My Joker sculpt is one of my first sculpts ever (milliput) i got better photos of it too. Im still in the middle of moulding my frankenstein. Did the second half tonight. see how it turns out tomorrow when i seperate the 2 halves. I just hope i put enough vaseline on half 1.

    scarey stuff eh. and expensive.

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  22. #142
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    kent kidwell -> really impresive work. I'm blown away (actually floating around the earth orbit right now, but thanks to the invention of wireless internet I can still surf the net ).

    You've been writing about the knowledge that one can get just by reading this kind of forums where people just talk about the given subject.
    You mentioned expanding silicone molds life span.
    So actually how to do it? How to take a good care of molds? Especially when it comes to casting plastic (you know, the chemical reactions, heat etc.)

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  23. #143
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    Hey leru,
    there are a few things I have learned to retain the life of a mold firs pick a good silicon and catalyst . This is very important as the shelf life of the materials properly mixed will be very well documented in the data sheets and also by the company you are purchasing from .
    make accurate measurements follow mixing instructions closely . to much catalyst can cause your rubber to age to quicky.
    I use gI 1000 for most of my molds but there are variations some with a more rigid rubber some softer . its really a balance if you make a mold of a piece with heavy undercuts and catches you will want a softer rubber, this decision will increase the life of the mold as stiffer rubber wont want to release and will eventually tear do to force . stiffer rubber is less yielding but works well with smooth serfaces that require very little pulling like mechanical parts . the gi products are very varied the gi 1000 i like because its right in the middle .not to soft not to hard just right .
    next use recomended mold release. properly applied it will stretch the life out of your mold .
    heat can also affect the molds longevity often it can be damaged over time by using chemical casting materials that have a thermal heat during cure many like clear casting materials get very hot during casting in the center. try not to cast things that get over three hundred digrees at the center also . Anything with a thick body will get very hot in the middle. so castng thinner parts save mold life. Casting a elephant body with over 6 inches of space in the middle can even explode without warning with some materials, make sure you use rubber bands rather then clamps . clamps build pressure rubber bands will allow it to relieve pressure.
    never leave a resin casting in a mold after it has cured sometimes resin can be costic to rubber and can in some resins leech the flexability out of the rubber.
    keep mold in cool dry place. warm air over time dries the rubber out .
    try and make your molds with the easiest pull angles . complicated cuves and forms will tax the pull and slowly create weak points in your rubber.
    you should never have to pull and stretch the mold to release a casting , so good engineering is the key to a long lasting mold ....
    hope this helps its all I can recal right now..
    another thing molds have a shelf life . not just a pull life so get all the castings you will need anything over a year and you may run into problem's.
    Bat fink the materials you are seeing are dark brown , cooked super sculpey fim . the grey clay is uncooked super sculpey firm , the lighter clay is majic sculpt.
    have fun !

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  24. #144
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    Yo kent kidwell! Thanks, again - blown away
    The temperature you've given is in Fahrenheit scale not Celsius right? 300 Celsius is quite a lot but I'm just making sure.

    I live in Poland, Europe, and I don't actually have an access to the wast assortment if I want to keep the costs low. Though I can import stuff from US but it's very expensive so I just pass.
    But as I'm watching the offer of one company I now realize how important is this flexibility or rigidity.

    Now I think that with your advices I will choose the right product and of course use it wisely.

    Thank you very much Kent
    best regards

    Last edited by Leru; August 10th, 2007 at 04:56 AM.
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  25. #145
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    Thanks leru,
    I hope that helps , I was thinking of fahrenheit.
    poland huh? stay warm ...pld:

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  26. #146
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    Cow Thanks again Kent.

    Well I've gotten to the part of seperating the sculpt from the mould. I used chavante clay by the way. So far everything seems to have gone according to plan.

    Loved the info you wrote about moulds lasting longer, Glad you wrote all that as i wouldnt of thought of asking. You should make a video of your experiences, it would benefit the whole sculpting world. Have you seen the Shifflet brothers vid on you-tube? Pretty good, but it just covers some sculpting.

    Anyhow, thanks for all your help and advice in this project. I did find a tip which i found out from experimenting.
    Have you ever thought of using an AIRBRUSH and compressor to vibrate bubbles from the mould? I read about a vibrating machine to do this but didnt have one so after mixing the rubber in a jug, i held it ontop of the airbrush compressor for about 10 mins, the advantage of this was i could also burst the bubbles with short gentle bursts from the actual airbrush as the bubble rose to the top.

    Dont know if you may have already known about this but if not you do now.
    One question, Is there any good ways of cleansing excess chavante clay from the mould rubber? I have acetone but didnt know wether to risk it on the rubber? How bout washing up liquid? (for dishes)?

    best regards, bat

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  27. #147
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    hey bat fink , Im happy you are having a successful mold experience thats great .you are absolutely right about vibration helping its very helpful. I have Made a few vibrateing tables cheap as mountable vibrators are expensive , I once attached a bench grinder to the back of my table and brake a chunk of material off the grinding wheel this will create a mean vibration when you turn it on . just cover it so no one gets hurt also . if you get a standard air tip . one that you would see in any shop , the ones with the small needle tip . use this on your first pour to break serface bubbles and force the rubber safely into detail , then just push the rubber around with it after to break bubbles . that with the vibration is excellent. as for cleaning chevant off rubber .. dish soap and a tooth brush will clean up nice and be easy on the mold . believe it or not dish soap disolves chevant slowly.
    have fun!!

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    Thanks kent, i forgot to ask, as i meant to edit in my comment, but after i took the chavant out of the mould, it appears as though the life has been sucked out of the chavant. I want to re-use it, but it looks dryed out, any tips on restoring the life into it?

    I left it in the sunshine to try n soften it up but it didnt work. any tips?

    Also, I am about to mix up some Multi purpose polyester resin, the instructions for mixing are a little vague, but il figure it out. But, do you know if resin sticks to cured resin? I want to paint in small areas of resin into troublesome detail spots, leave it to dry. Then put the mould together, clamp it, then do a slush pour to fill the mould and not worry if it got into the details. Then Im thinking of filling the resin shell with plaster of paris for bulk. Does this sound like it would work? The mould is of my frankenstein sculpt above.

    Il post a few pics of its progress soon.

    Last edited by bat-fink; August 11th, 2007 at 03:25 PM.
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  29. #149
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    hey bat fink ,
    resin will stick to resin very well as long as you haven't toached it to much or there is and mold release on the serface if so remove with dish soapy water or acetone . Make sure it is totally dry before adding resin. as for the chevant , I use a microwave to soften it . It will actually go liquid then just mix it with a stick . It reataines heat very well so don't get any on you it sticks like glue and will burn slowly until it cools. just use a container you don't mind ruining as it is very hard to clean up melted chevant. back filling resin with plaster works but I would use hydra stone or a more stable plaster , as straight plaster of paris is very soft.
    happy moulding!

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  30. #150
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    I wanted to post these pics to show how the head merchant piece finished up .
    I have a few progress shots .I would have shown you the mold process on this piece but It was roto cast.
    there are very few solid pieces in this sculpture most were cast hollow with about 1/8 in resin shell. the whole piece went from 14lbs to
    about 5 lbs. Saving alot in resin and shipping weight . I am going to get a roto cast machine and once I get it dialed in I will do a tutorial on that process .

    Attached Images Attached Images                      
    Last edited by kent kidwell; August 12th, 2007 at 06:06 PM.
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