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  1. #1
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    Resin Kit Tutorial ,new stuff 4/1/2011

    Hello ,
    I am relatively new to this site, but have enjoyed this open forum very much. I think this site is doing a great service ,offering info that is very hard to aquire as these subjects aren't taught in any conventional way,and learning through trial and error can be expensive and slow. I joined this site in an attempt to expand and improve my illustration skills as I feel they need it, but my true love and employ has come from scuplting and in an effort not to starve in that profession I have learned in my twenty + years doing it that you have to be diverse and very flexable in application . which means that one day you could have a guy wanting a dragon in bronze and a lifesize person in concrete the next. so knowing how to sculpt is important but knowing how to make a mold of the piece how to break the piece into sections to improve casting quality, and how to engineer a functional mold that will last through hundreds of castings with consistant results , also what materials to use to cast with , like resin , polyester, urethane, plaster , concrete , bronze you name it and if you are looking to produce commercially you will need to develop a working knowledge of these materials and there applications.but dont fret you will never know it all and every project will teach you something.So all of us will always be students .Anyway enough babbling , I am going to walk you through a garage kit or resin kit process from design to casting a finished product, many of the things I am sharing with you are things I learned from professionals who nice enough to show me so im just passing that on.Ayway if you have any info on an improved way of doing something that is faster and better then what I am showing please tell . like I said we are all students .I won't be offended.one other thing this thread is spacific to produceing a resin cast commercially viable piece , without having to go and outsoarce the casting and keeping production costs low.I have been working on this project since dec 5 and the sculpt is nearly done. I have done very few sci fi creatures in my day so I hope it won't bore you veterans , my son wanted a creature so here it is , I hope you like it and the info helps, mahalo. and Merry Christmas!
    Last edited by kent kidwell; April 2nd, 2011 at 04:42 PM.


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  3. #2
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    That's a great sculpt, and I'm looking forward to updates outlining the rest of the project, especially as I'm just dipping my toes into the whole sculpt, mold, cast process, seeing someone with experience outline how they go about it will be a big help towards improving my skills and reducing the inevitable wastage pieces.

  4. #3
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    thanks , this process is alot of work im finding so its good to see interrest.even if the sculpt blows the pre mold process and molding and casting parts should help.Thanks again

  5. #4
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    I started work on the base first so i would have a place to mount the piece naturally.I strayed a bit from my original design, if I were not producing this piece for myself I would probably be forced to stay accurate to the original, so much more fun doing this stuff for yourself.
    Last edited by kent kidwell; December 26th, 2006 at 08:25 AM.

  6. #5
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    Red face

    Great work Kent Kidwell, can't wait for the next posts to see how it goes and how your going to get round all them difficult undercuts.

    Ollie

  7. #6
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    thanks,I shall show you how to deal with pesky undercuts.Im a few steps away from that yet , i will be imputing and correcting stuff for the next couple of days .the strings on the armiture below are just to hold legs in correct position until epoxy cures.the tube I used for the armitures spine is just plumbing tubes , i like the way thay bend , bend to much and they break kind of like a real spine.Ive not been going through all the steps already covered in the excellent smellybug tutorials mainly because my area of focus has alot to do after the sculpt that and im slow at this .picture 7 below shows the replaced shin armiture. I also drilled into base 1/4 inch and inserted armiture wire into hole to add stability. I secured the spot with a little epoxy . I dont want the legs to move at all once the spot is solid.let epoxy cure before doing anything else to piece . why I do this will be more clear as we move forward.
    Last edited by kent kidwell; December 26th, 2006 at 08:02 PM.

  8. #7
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    Im started the process of determining where i will devide the piece. you do this for several reasons . for me I do this because the odds of getting a perfect casting on a complicated piece is almost impossible, especially in a garage company budget . and nothing sucks more then having to trash 2lbs of resin for a few air bubbles , second reason is if you do get an air bubble on a small part you can toss it with almost no loss and re cast it. another reason is most modelers enjoy the assemly process what they hate is poor castings and filling in air bubbles. also they grumble about pieces that dont assemle seamlessly. if you can pick out the devides after assembly you did a poor job. so far I have chosen to remove the piece at the ankle as well as have the fore arms seperate. I would like to possibly seperate the piece below the belly but no rush on that . (see below)im starting the process of determining my devides while the legs and arms are still soft.by cutting deep to the armiture then softly correcting my cuts closing any visible line left by the xacto blade.on the two ankle cuts Im going to remove it completely and put it back just to ensure the legs will easily come away from the base without cracking . I will put the Piece back an clean it up before baking with the base. . but the cuts will be there and it will come away from the base with no problems because i tested it first.this process of seperating the piece up can take forever if you wait to do these things until late in the process . another good reason for doing this is I will be able to have the arms removed from the piece to sculpt the hands it allows a better view to ensure clean sculpt on the hard to reach backside of the arms
    Last edited by kent kidwell; December 29th, 2006 at 09:32 PM.

  9. #8
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    great sculpting, and thank you for sharing I'll definitely be keeping an eye on this.

  10. #9
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    thanks, heres more..below I have shown where all of the seperations will be and how many pieces we will have just on the creature , ultimately there wel be about 10 seprate castings , plus a few more small castings like horns and smaller pointed or thin parts that will trap air bubbles. it also males the piece more three dimentional to have intentional undercuts that are cast seperate and placed back on during assembly. I will show some examples of this further in the process.I was afraid that seperating 4and 5 would be a challenge but i should be ok as the spine won't need to be cut to make this work hurahh.

  11. #10
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    Thumbs up

    Hell Ya!

    Awesome sculpt

  12. #11
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    very cool!!! cant wait to see the casting!!!
    My Sketchbook

    Life is a long lesson in humility.

  13. #12
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    If you have to cut through the Amature wire,for example at the elbow what tool would you use? and maybe silly question what is a xacto blade?

    Really great job and real easy to follow.

    Ollie

  14. #13
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    Hey OMB, I believe an xacto blade is just an American brand of scalpel type craft knife, very fine and sharp with the blade ending in very sharp point/tip. You should be able to find an image if you google search and then locate a similar UK version in an art/craft store. (I got a handle and 5 replaceable blades for around £5-6 from a local store, you can probably find one cheaper if you shop around).

  15. #14
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    forgive me xacto was wrong ,i think its called a craft knife or something , I forget that this forum is world wide I will try to be more broad . as for the armiture I use a dremel tool with a thin metal cutting disk. also the epoxy putty allows the thick wire to release if you twist it out, cutting any metal inside of a piece can be very damaging . so a little trick , cull all the joints first and attach them using only epoxy putty.that way you wont need to cut away any armiture wire inside.(see attached)
    Last edited by kent kidwell; December 27th, 2006 at 06:31 PM.

  16. #15
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    Smoothing out the form with brush and what medium?

    Kent,

    I apologize if somewhere in this thread you answered this question already, but I noticed you smooth out and refine the form with a brush....Are you using something like turpinoid to dip the brush in and apply to the sculpt? I'm hoping there is a less toxic approach to this part of sculpting...I know that with Chevant sulfur free clay an alcohol torch can be used to the same effect, but can sometimes singe the clay and in general make things smell...so I'm curious, hoping you can elaborate on how u approach this part of the process...

    -J

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