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  1. #226
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    Svitjod, Sverige, Skåne, Italia, Toscana
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    Hey nice feet. Keep 'em simple, keepm 'em many! Nice contrasts, using the shadows to describe form very well


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  3. #227
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    Jul 2006
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    Thanks. It's starting to get weird trying to figure out new angles to draw my own feet. I need to do about 20 more of them to have enough for the sculpture I am making. I am just changing around the style a bit by which I create values and use new lighting angles.

    I'm also painting my house and doing some other cosmetic things to it. There is an 8 ft. x 8 ft. little alcove like porch between my front door and my little door into my garage. I am going to make a thing like a Chinese style room divider out of a couple of pieces of plywood. Maybe it will help prevent the leaves from blowing in there and collecting. Here are my plan drawings. The blackened circle is the walk through hole and the repeating pattern is cut into the frame surrounding it. The two pieces of plywood will probably be on hinges so they don't prevent me moving appliances and big paintings in and out.

  4. #228
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    I haven't been idle, though my efforts have been in applied art rather than esoterica lately. Here is how far I have gotten on the brick work on my patio and one of the sides of the house I have finished painting. I know the house painting is minimalist, but that sort of thing never seems to go out of style.

  5. #229
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    London
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    The pattern of your chinese room divider looks a bit .... too busy? Don´t know if this´ll work out but I´m anxious to see what the progress will look like.

    The house is real minimalistic and the brickworks is a bit ordinary too. But then again, it is not conceptart either. But hard and tiresome work I guess. Shows us ome more pics when you throw your first BBQ there.
    A tutor once said to me: "Let your mind go!" and it didn´t come back.

    Wolf@WorK aka Sketchbook

    my Heavy Industrie, Military and Steampunk References/Textures (updated Oct 2012)

  6. #230
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    Here is the prickly pear about 2/3 done. It is black and white because I wanted to preserve the pencil form of the feet instead of painting over them and also there is a black and white gallery show at the end of September I would like to be in.

    Never mind. The library computer won't read my floppy disk again.

  7. #231
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    Let's try again.
    Nope! I'll use my own damn computer later today.

  8. #232
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    After I logged out for the day I found out that the librarian had accidentally deleted a bunch of work related print jobs I had sent. Sheesh! So much for the grand experiment of not paying for the internet.

  9. #233
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    Here's more feet from this morning.

  10. #234
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  11. #235
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    and still more.

  12. #236
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    I did a lot of feet over the weekend and storms made the internet not so feasible yesterday.

    The slide deadline for the black and white show I want to do is about Aug. 27 and I need lead time for slide development so I hope to finish the prickly pear sculpture this week.

    I hope I'm not posting duplicates. I forgot my notes about which files already went up and if I leave the reply screen to look at my sketchbook and see, it won't let me use attachment manager any more. Here goes nothing:

  13. #237
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    Only two more feet to go. I hope the prickly pear will be completed by the end of the week. I start a life drawing class Aug 27 so I am probably going to move on to boobs, buns, sausages and the like.

  14. #238
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    Here are the last two.

  15. #239
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    Attachment 179981Here is some more development of the earlier color swatch. I am featuring subtleties of brown and gray. The numbers on here can be shifted without addition of a third color. (e.g. To make #1 bluer, just add more Phthalo blue. To make it yellower just add more lemon yellow.)

    To make gray, many people might be tempted to go straight to lamp black plus titanium white as shown at A. To make brown it is tempting to go with burnt umber, possibly with more or less titanium white (see right column third from top).

    Other combinations include:
    B is #12 shifted toward red plus some lemon yellow
    C is #12 shifted toward blue with some lemon yellow
    D is #3 shifted toward yellow plus some permanent rose
    E is #3 shifted toward blue plus some permanent rose
    F is #7 shifted toward yellow with some phthalo blue
    G is #7 shifted toward red with some phthalo blue
    H is #10 shifted toward blue plus some cad yellow deep hue
    I is #10 shifted toward red plus some cad yellow deep hue
    J is burnt umber plus phthalo blue
    K is J plus some titanium white (see also Y)
    L is burnt sienna plus some phthalo blue and I lightened a corner with titanium white
    M is L with titanium white
    N is #9 shifted toward blue with some cad yellow deep hue
    O is #9 shifted toward red plus some cad yellow deep
    P is #1 shifted toward blue with some cad red medium hue and titanium white
    Q is #1 shifted toward yellow with some cad red medium hue (no white)
    R is #6 shifted toward red with some phthalo blue
    S is #6 shifted toward yellow with some phthalo blue
    T is burnt sienna plus yellow ochre
    U is T plus titanium white
    V is burnt umber plus lots of yellow ochre
    W is V except with more burnt umber
    X is U plus K (or Y)
    Y is J plus titanium white (see also K)
    Z is W plus titanium white

    As a bonus I put titanium white tints of straight tube color on the right hand column. Top to bottom they are dioxazine purple, viridian, burnt umber, cad red med hue, permanent rose, phthalocyanine blue (Georgian above and Graham below), ultramarine, lemon yellow, cad yellow deep hue, yellow ochre, and burnt sienna (Georgian above and Graham below).

  16. #240
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    Here's the final. It's a little more complicated than I thought it would be.

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