Art: oil paints and brushes

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  1. #1
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    you need thinner, preferably odorless mineral spirits, turpenoid and gamsol are some reputible kinds. ii will usually wash my brushes by swishing them around in a container of mineral spirits, to get the bulk of the paint off the hairs. ill then wait for them to dry 3-7 days, and then wash 'em with dishwashing liquid. dawn or palmolive work splendidly.this system has worked for me for years. i hope this helps.

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    thanks el coro...it does help. i've never painted w/oils before. i'm looking forward to seeing what it's like not having a digitab to work on.

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    it is THE BEST way to learn how to paint, in my opinion. i use tricks ive learned painting with oils that i use for digital paintings all the time. theres something to be said about a medium that has remained relatively unchanged in 500-600 years. there's something to that, a time honored tradition. do velasquez, sargeant, and rockwell proud, its our time now, dude.

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    the only thing is...now don't worry el coro...i'm not asking you to give me a process or anything. but i hear you are supposed to block in shapes then let dry, bring out smaller, lighter shapes, then let dry, repeat, repeat, repeat, then do highlights and low and behold....one year later you have a painting.

    i've also heard that you don't have to let the sh#t dry at all.

    i'm a little confused. but seriously coro, i'm into learning it.

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    oil moves faster than anything. i can bang out HUGE paintings in a few hours.... drying time is something that can be worked around. i work wet in wet, meaning i usually do the whole thing in one shot. if it is a seriously complex piece, i will work toward "tie off points" such as i wont stop in the middle of an arm, but finish it before i go to bed, that way theres nocolor matching the next morning... as far as oil taking a long time to dry, it does take days for a thick, impastoed painting to dry, but i paint relatively thin, so most of my layers are dry within 24 hours...the truth is it is a hassle. and it takes YEARS to get your process down. it boils down to literally thousands of variables, how fast certain colors dry,knowing pigment strength and color mixing, and brush work, oh brush work! but im telling you, its worth learning. it keeps me sane. the last thing i want to do when i get home from work is sit on a computer...speaking of which, i'm starting a large oil painting tonight, so i gotta go. good luck, and maybe i can post a step by step example for you or something.....-c36

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    and maybe i can post a step by step example for you or something.....-c36
    Sh$t man...i LOVE this place. i can honestly tell you that this site alone has pushed me further in my goals. i don't know what it is but...it just seems that the interaction w/the pros here just...kicks...A$$. thx for the replies coro...and when you have time...keep'em coming. i'll tell you what-i have been doing a self-portrait a day(in the guest section), this weekend i'll break out those oils and make my first attempt. these are the only paintings i have done so.... maybe you could give me some feedback in this thread. i'm to the point now where i don't care if i have to eat dirt to achieve better skills/understanding/and grace with art. once again thanks man. it's much appreciated!

    Last edited by keyth; August 16th, 2002 at 04:21 AM.
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    Thumbs up Bloody hell...

    I'll have my eyes on this! It's damn too early for me (oils? I barely can hold a pencil) but I surely wanna see this.
    If you start it - move it to the "Tutorial Sector" - conceptart.org member demos - u know. the empy zone

    P.S. - where do you work, Coro?

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    Oil painting is great.
    Here is tha start of a tutorial at my site, maybe it will help and maybe I will get the text and larger images posted.

    http://seegmillerart.com/oilpainting_tutorial.htm

    The painting is 24 inches x 48 inches

    Regards
    Don

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    Don, you're the man. great tutorial(badass painting as well). your rendering of texture is superb. oblio, i work at shaba games, a little developer up in saualito, ca. we do extreme sports games for activision. keyth, keep pushing. i like the self portraits. you ot skills, man. develop them. you'll exceed even your own expectations...-c36

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    thanks for the kind words el coro!!! i have one more question before i begin. i read up a little on that wet on wet stuff. i am wondering if you can give me a little tip on how to prepare my paints...i mix it w/thinner right? what ratio do you recommend? thanks sooooo much!!!!

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    MOMMY I"M HOOOMEEE


    I'm not telling ANYone about this place! (too bad everyone allready nows)

    keep it nice and small, and get a lot of attention!

    hehheheheh
    !!!!

    I LOVE THIS THREAD/FORUM Etc!

    thanx all, very comprehensive

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    thin oil paints

    Keyth,

    Wet on wet is a technique that is great for speed painting. The name is deceptive though. The paint is wet when it comes from the tube and generally it is a good idea to not add anything to your paint. Now we all know that this is not completely possible as sometimes the paint from the tube is rather stiff.
    Do not mix your paint with thinner...
    Mixing with thinner only weakens the the paints film integrity. If you want to use something to make the paint easier to brush, my recommendation is Liquin, or one of the several mediums manufactured by the Gamblin paint company. They are alkyd based mediums and will help the paint maintain a strong bond with itself and the ground.
    Do not mix so much in the paint that it becomes soupy. Just a very little added with the brush tothe edge of where you are mixing the color you are using.
    Now if you want to glaze, that is another subject.

    Regards
    Don

    Good luck

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    Don, El Coro...i'm buying you guys some pizza. Thanks Don, i was actually going to go ahead and mix w/thinner. i don't thiink i'll be doing that now. time to get to work...THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    glaze? ha ha i gotta learn to crawl first.

    Last edited by keyth; August 19th, 2002 at 11:50 AM.
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  16. #15
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    Keyth: I use turpinoid to thin my oil paint, its a turpintine substitute. It works well. I like how long oils take to dry - about 6.4 billion freaking years! I still ove em though. Hey keyth i cant wait to finaly see some color work outta you!

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    hehe, keyth
    i know what you feel like.
    i just begun painting with acrylics, wich in fact is the first "real" paint i used out of school. (school made me hate watercolor, school didn't teach me paint in oils, acrylics, gouache etc...)
    so far, i was digital only (concerning painting... i did inks, chalks, charcoal, pencil etc...) and after spending one hour interacting with a piece of paper, a brush and paint, oh man... it felt just so great so much fun, so much freedom, so much life! and i was just trying how that paint behaves...

    it's one of those things that keeps you awake until 6 in the morning and wake you up after not half of enough sleep just for the sake of letting the fun continue...

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    Keyth,

    Everyone is going to have different approaches and suggestions. experiment and find out what works for you over time. First off you might want to get yourself one of those step by step painting like the old masters books. Preferably one that lists the techniques and various mediums of the artists.

    I used to use Liquin but I found that it made the painting tacky too soon and eventually yellowed parts of the painting months/years later. Even if you only dab the brush in liquin before painting you'll still be spreading that stuff around as you go. Once one layer of paint drys super quick on the surface you'll apply a second layer or add details to a earlier block in and smear more liquin on it. Eventually the paint underneath the dried layers that is still semi wet won't be able to dry properly and will yellow and/or crack the painting. Try it anyway though. You might like it.

    I don't use thinner as a medium while I paint. It is meant only to clean brushes IMO. There are numerous mediums that were specifically made for working with oils. Mixtures of some of these mediums will give varying results. Stand oil, linseed, sun thickened linseed, damar varnish, black oil, venice turpentine etc. Although you may be a ways off from getting any use out of this stuff. There are liquin substitutes that work as well without the worry of yellowing and have slower drying times. Grumbacher makes one or two types.

    As far as cleaning yourself and the brushes off, Every art store in america should have a soap called "The Masters Hand Soap" It has a little pic of a man sitting at an easel. That stuff has taken oil stains out of jeans weeks after it has set in! Also I don't know how much money you want to or have spent on brushes but if you use thinner to clean them do so only until there is no more paint visible. Wet the brushes then use Murphy's oil soap. A 8oz bottle of the liquid soap should do. Yeah I know it's used for cleaning hard wood floors but it's better that using thinner. Turpenoid alone will cause your brushes to become brittle after they are dried out. Murphy's cleans my brushes so well that they look and feel like new after each sitting.
    Good brushes cost and the last thing I want is to have to replace them due to neglegence and poor cleaning.

    Get a roll of canvas or a 4ft sheet of masonite from home depot that you can get cut down to whatever size. gesso it up and have fun!!!

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  19. #18
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    hmm, since all the painters are tossing in their two cents, here's mine.

    my teacher, steve assael's medium is a old master type medium that includes, one part stand oil, one part venice turpentine, and one part damar varnish. i think donato uses a similiar medium to this.
    it's a nice medium to use. gets nice and tacky.

    when i paint i rarely use any medium (when painting from life) . sometimes i have some gamblin alkyd around or some thickened linseed oil. but i like painting with very little medium. i rarely use any thinner except for the begining when i use alittle turp to sketch it out. i find that most high quality paints aren't as stiff and the cheap stuff. plus the more paint you put down the easier it is to move around.
    when doing an illustration i would use some galkyd because of the quick drying time, but that stuff yellows. i don't like liquin because it has cobalt and cobalt stinks.

    to clean the brushes, i just dip it in turp for a half a second or something and take it out and clean it with my fingers with some dove soap. that's right! it works fine and doesn't dry the hairs out too much. leaving your brushes in turp is a horrible idea because it dries out the hairs. and dove works really good, just clean it nice. i've also noticed that if i took some hair conditioner and put it on the brush hairs, it makes them nice an soft again. (i'm not talking about those shrunken stubs)

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  20. #19
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    Hey jrr,

    A fellow SVA alumni. I was wondering If I'd ever run into anyone. I had Steve too, just for a semester though. After that I crossed over to Mattelson and stayed there. Donato's medium is 1 part Sun thickened linseed oil and 1 part damar. He may have changed it since last we spoke. Did you get a chance to take his sci-fi class? Best class I took at sva! Congratulations on graduating.

    Eric W.

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    i took a class with john monteleone for sci fi. (i was one of those take steve assael and max ginsburg for 4 year guys), i didn't know donato taught at sva til he left sva. i really wanted to sit in that class.

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    Just for grins, go here --
    http://www.oilpaintingtechniques.com

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