Springofsea - Color & Light 1.1

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  1. #1
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    Springofsea - Color & Light 1.1

    Didn't know that painting from life is this hard, yet fun at the same time. Trying to get the shape and detail right is not that easy, especially to paint it precisely the same with my face. However, it was fun since this is my first time doing this and I learn a lot too.
    This was done in more than 6 hours, didn't exactly count the hours because I redo-ed many times to get things right.
    Placing a fairly dim lamp on my left side and mirror in front has created a low-key presence.

    - MASS LIGHT = is definitely on the area near the light source which is on my left cheek and neck until middle part of the face. Since this artwork is more to low key, the light value isn't really that contrast.
    - TRANSITION / HALF TONE = from the nose going to right side of the face which is darker. Transition is really important as a bridge between contrast value.
    - HIGHLIGHT = on the edge corner of my left cheek and the tip of my nose. Highlight is much more obvious in the spots near light source.
    - MASS SHADOW = it appears in the opposite plane from the light source & spots where it is covered by something (like hair). In my portrait, mass shadow appears on the right side of the nose, cheek, and neck that aren't exposed with the light.
    - REFLECT LIGHT = to be honest I'm still quite confused with reflect light, but I assume it is on the lighter part of my right cheek. Why? because it reflects the light from my PC monitor.
    - CORE SHADOW = it is the darkest part of the plane where the object details are no longer to be seen. In my case, it's on the right side where the forehead is near to the hair, and on the right side neck below the chin.
    - CAST SHADOW = is the spot where dark values are created because it is covered by something, for example the shadow created on my face because of the fringe & the shadow on right side of my nose.

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  3. #2
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    This looks really nice so far. Double check your values at the very end by locking your eyes on to the focal area..the eyes in this instance...and check values from peripheral vision while your eyes are locked on to the focal area. If your eyes are roaming around while you paint, it can sometimes end up looking a little spotty because your eyes keep adjusting and seeing more and more value changes. Looking at it in peripheral while your eyes are locked on the focal area will allow you to see the light and shadow as a whole, under the same level of pupil dilation, rather than many different dilations if your eyes are roaming.

    Keep up the good work.



    JM

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Manley View Post
    This looks really nice so far. Double check your values at the very end by locking your eyes on to the focal area..the eyes in this instance...and check values from peripheral vision while your eyes are locked on to the focal area. If your eyes are roaming around while you paint, it can sometimes end up looking a little spotty because your eyes keep adjusting and seeing more and more value changes. Looking at it in peripheral while your eyes are locked on the focal area will allow you to see the light and shadow as a whole, under the same level of pupil dilation, rather than many different dilations if your eyes are roaming.

    Keep up the good work.



    JM

    Ooooh! Now that's why.... Now I understand why this painting took decades. I had a hard time adjusting the value because I didn't lock the focal point. And also why it looks spotty all over. Thanks Jason! This live painting project is very interesting and beneficial

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  6. #4
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    go ahead and make the adjustments as time allows. i look forward to the update.


    jm

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