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  1. #61
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    Thumbs up

    Oooh... nice job! Keep it up.

    Say, Propoxy, is that perhaps some kind of epoxy clay?
    I've read that Sculpey gets brittle and breaks easy. How thin is not good to go beyond if I don't want it to break easily?

    Thanks for a great tutorial! You should ask the people at CA to host the images when you're done so that the tutorial will stay on the forum!

    EDIT - Sorry, I should read more closely in the future. I saw the post where you wrote that you used an epoxy putty named Propoxy.


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  3. #62
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    Man, this is great. I'm loving this tutorial. I've been trying to figure out what to use for flat areas (wings for a giant bee I'm making) that I can add clay to, and that MESH is perfect for what I need it to do. Thanks!! :chug:

    Oh, and this sculpt is looking amazing....love a good imaginary creature anytime! :cool:

  4. #63
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    oh please more now, more now! this is so good i feel like i am watching a great film and then the lights go up and "continued" rolls across the screen. i must admit i have been avidly checking this thread for you updates, eagerly waiting for christmas.

    smellybug, you have given of your time and talent way beyond any expectation. thank you so much. you are an incredible artist, gentleman and teacher.

    hope to meet you some day at a convention or job.

    jon

  5. #64
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    wow this thread is amazing! I'm so glad I found it...wow...awesome. I can't wait to see it totally done!

  6. #65
    smellybug Guest
    Thanks again you guys.

    Zaph: Yeah, it can break if it's unsupported. I'm close to too thin here, but I'll risk it. Superglue is your friend. If you need make thin strong parts, you can also make them out of something stronger, like the propoxy, though it can be a bit tricky. In the past I've made parts like this seperately and then molded them out of plastic and attached them...but that's another tutorial.

    Scotty, yeah...wings are a challenge for sure. Good luck with that. You can further stiffen the mesh by painting 5min epoxy into it, or two part easy plastic. (get that at Douglas and Sturgess) If you put two layers of mesh together and bind them with those products, it'll be reeelly stiff, sorta like fiberglass.

    Jon: I'm huge fan! I'll do my best to post more often. I'm glad you're getting something out of this. As for being a gentleman....have you read the chukw fiasco?! I'm a bad person...lol. Yikes!

    MCM: Me too.

  7. #66
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    Foster, my sentiments exactly... I keep checking this thread... sometimes 3 or 4 times a day just to see if there is anything new...

    thank you smelly...

    -mike
    -Deth Jester
    "Live each day like you will die tommorow, and dream like you will live forever..."

  8. #67
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    Smellybug. I know you have yet to get to this stage, but i cannot resist asking this question to someone so willing to help out us little guys.

    I have a sculpey sculpture I just finished. I want to paint it, but fear that putting primer on it will lose detail. If i wanted to paint it with acrylic paint, would a primer coat be necessary? The sculpey I used was the big box of white sculpey mixed with black sculpey 3 to get a medium gray. thanks!

  9. #68
    smellybug Guest
    No, it's not necessary. Just don't use oil based paints on it. Paint away!

  10. #69
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    Painting super sculpey

    Sandable laquer-based primer and acrylic paints are the best way to go for painting super sculpey pieces.

    You can get acrylic craft paints cheap at places like Michaels and Hobby Lobby. They come in 3 oz. bottles.

    Great work on the tutorial, Smellybug. Keep it up!
    "Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it."
    -- Goethe

    Visit my online portfolio: Dan Perez Studios

  11. #70
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    Oh man, this is amazing stuff!
    i always wanted to try this out, and now i'm finally getting a start-to-finish overview of how to do it!

    please keep going!!
    Consider Phlebas, who once was handsome and tall as you

    sketches: http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20140

  12. #71
    smellybug Guest
    Check for more updates tonight!

  13. #72
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    Lightbulb

    this is my first time on this site...and i thought that your sculpture looked awesome...i'm really hoping to do more sculpey myself..i just started out a few months ago...had to do one for an art class. it didn't turn out too bad..lol..and got myself into doing a lot of detail (scailed armor). i would love a job doing more of this...so i'm glad you made this tutorial...it really helps me learn more about skin textures and wrinkles and all that tedious "fun" stuff. you've been a big help. i want to post pics of my scuplture soon. i really want to see this one finished...great job...but i guess that's why you're a pro at it...lol
    Cthulhu for President! Why choose the lesser of two evils.

  14. #73
    smellybug Guest
    Ok...notes:
    Starting the detail process now. This is a multi stage process. I like to jump around, so you'll notice that there are many parts not yet ready for fine detail. Again, I work big to small through all stages of work, going over the sculpt in waves.
    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
    Here I've sorta cheated, combining the first stage and second. I should have taken a picture earlier in the day...
    STAGE 1: Muscle details. Very important to get the "canvas" ready for the finer details. This involves tightening the muscle shapes. Making sure muscles read like they are interacting with eachother realistically. The overs and unders. Reference is a must. Even with a fictional creature like this, people can spot that something just ain't right if you don't understand how the real thing works in the natural world.
    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
    STAGE2/3: See the larger wrinkles and folds? This is stage 2 work. Every stage of work depends on the previous stage being right. So before I add the finer lines and textures, the ones they lay upon need to be worked out.
    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
    Notice also that the surface detail is very tooled looking and rough. Eventually once I get the entire character detailed to this point, I will go over the surface with turpenoid and a soft, relatively small brush. But that will be in future updates.
    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
    He I'm showing that only half the model is textured. Normally I'd do both sides, but since I'm trying to replicate or get the feeling of the original drawing, i want to work out that side first. I will then mirror it over to the other side, which is a challenge by itself. More on that later.
    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!

    * A word on patience. I can't teach it, but you gotta have it. This is something that masters like Foster understand very well. You have to be able to sit and work methodically and focused for long periods of time. This is one thing that gets overlooked with a number of people just getting started. You reeeally want to see the finished product, I know. But there are few shortcuts to learning the craft and going through the necessare steps to complete something that will knock peoples socks off. All of the kickass people on this site have put their time in and done their homework, even extra credit. That's the only way you can get to the point of making cool things look effortless. Normally if I was working on this full time, I could crank it out in a couple of days. But speed only comes with experience. Take your time and pay the dues, it will pay off later.

  15. #74
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    Petey,

    This is freakin wicked, we are grateful that you took the time to show us how its done.

    And this all free to us..people have paid much tuition learning
    half this stuff.

    knowledge is invaluable, not sure whats going on with thunderdome, but I still want that studio tour man.

    peace homeboy,

    JP

  16. #75
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    Very very nice/inspiring. got a pic of how the relaxed flap came out?

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