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Thread: Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!

  1. #14
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    Petey...this is fantastic!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to go through this with us. I'm chomping at the bit to see you get started. This is something I've dabbled with but wanted to get into more seriously for awhile now and this might be my chance!!

    By the way, great work Mr.Blue on the Massive Black site!! Those maquettes are works of genius. Do you use an airbrush when painting them? Is there hope for those of us who don't have an airbrush, or is it pretty much necessary when painting maquettes?
    "I don't know half of you half as well as I should like; and I like less than half of you half as well as you deserve."
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  3. #15
    smellybug Guest
    Lol...you are chomping at the bit...already talking about painting! I do use an airbrush, but not exclusively. You'll see, I'll probably use everything but the kitchen sink.
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  4. #16
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    This is so fantastic! This is why I love this forum... I am as giddy as a school boy! thanks a ton for doing this Smelly!

    peace
    -mike
    -Deth Jester
    "Live each day like you will die tommorow, and dream like you will live forever..."
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  5. #17
    smellybug Guest
    Next I took the photoshop file, cut out the critter and blew the printout up to the size i want to sculpt it on a regular xerox machine. I don't have it here, but it's of course best to have all three orthographic views of what you're doing. But in this case, I'll be leaving a bit of it up to experimentation, and I have a pretty good idea in my mind what the rest of the guy should look like. This image will also be used for building the armature and a reference when I'm actually sculpting.

    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
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  6. #18
    smellybug Guest
    So now i know how big my base needs to be, and I have more of a sense as to how heavy the final sculpture will be. The base is made just big enough to keep the thing from toppling over, but not so big that I can't get close enough to do my work. I'm using a 3/8 inch threaded rod as the main support and have fastened it down with a nut on top, a wingnut on the bottom and a couple of washers. The main thing is you don't want a flimsy support because it's annoying. At a certain point down the road, I will also take the rod with the sculpture off of the wooden base in order to get at the bottom of it. More on that later.

    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!

    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
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  7. #19
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    This is great! I'm always down for learning new tips and methods for sculpting. I can't wait to see how YOU go about it. You clearly do great work. Thank you for not being selfish with your knowledge. :thumbsup:
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  8. #20
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    This is great!

    I can't wait for the next update. I'm in the progress of making a miniature in milliput epoxy. I'm still on the starting blocks so this will be great to look at when I take my first shaky steps.

    I'm making my armature today with a support that will be able to rotate on the x and y axis and I got a load of dentist tools (46pcs) from an aquintance (Anyone in the area of Gothenburg, if you want some tools for sculpting give me a mail). So I'm all but ready to go!

    I need to work some more on my concepts and then I'm gonna start sculpting.

    Oh well, I'm just ranting. I'm just exited to see a tutorial right now since I'm gonna do the same thing! I hope I will be able to pick up a few tips.

    Keep up the good work! I'm looking forward to see the tutorial as it progresses.
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  9. #21
    smellybug Guest
    I've taken the xerox and roughly drawn where I think the spine and main skeleton of the model should be. The clay will ultimately be supported by an internal wire skeleton. I didn't mark it exactly where it would be in nature, but deeper into the mass of the body, just to give me room. Nothing is more irritating than hitting a wire as you're sculpting away, so give your self a bit of space. The backbone wire (aluminum wire available at art stores or ceramics stores) here will be attached to the threaded rod and will support the bulk of the weight, therefore make sure it is strong enough for the job. Here I'm using 1/4 inch, which should be strong enough.
    I then indicated where the wire will be for the arms and legs. The white dots are there to remind me where the pivot points would be. I'll use them to compare both sides of the model, keeping the arms and legs symetrical. Keep in mind though that the drawing was done in perspective. If you make the arm wires and legs wires as long as the black line I drew, they'd be too short. A front and top view will help with that. I'll add those images soon.

    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
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  10. #22
    smellybug Guest
    This creature will be fabricated out of Super Sculpey and Sculpey III. I'll use the Sculpey III to tint the largers blocks of regular Super Sculpey.
    **special tip When you buy your sculpey, check for "freshness". Open the box and check that the material is soft and you can press your finger into it. Sculpey isn't cheap, so don't buy old dried up stuff that's been sitting on the store shelf for six months. And when you get it home, put in a zip lock bag or tupperware if you're not going to use it immediately. Takes a long time to dry out, but it will.

    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
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  11. #23
    smellybug Guest
    Here I'm premixing my sculpey to achieve an opaque grey color. In this case, I want the material to photograph for the tuturial, so eliminating the translucency of the original color will do that. In addition, it's helpful to tint the material a color that is fairly close to the base color of the final product. Not only does it help visualize as you are working, but it helps the painting process as well.
    The ratio I used here was:

    1 box Sculpey
    1 block white Sculpey III
    1/2 block black Sculpey III

    Keeping the ratios simple like this allows me to make more anytime I need it and the colors will match.

    Just run it through the press over and over, flattening, folding and shredding and repeating until the color is solid. Same thing if you're doing it by hand. Takes a while, but it's worth it.

    Smellybugs Maquette Tutorial completed!
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  12. #24
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    this is what Im talking about, a tutorial start to finish... telling how to make everything.. thanks Smelly! hey does it say Sculpey 3 on the packages? Cause I was at the art store and I saw packages that Say Sculpey and they are colored but I didnt see any 3 on the label.

    thanks
    -mike
    -Deth Jester
    "Live each day like you will die tommorow, and dream like you will live forever..."
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  13. #25
    smellybug Guest
    checked mine, one said III the other didn't. If it's colored and sculpey, it's ok.
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  14. #26
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    bueno! I am working along wiht you, but Im not gonna post pics.. and I dont have a sphaghetti machine..

    -mike
    -Deth Jester
    "Live each day like you will die tommorow, and dream like you will live forever..."
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