Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 49
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts

    Whitaker flesh painting


    Iíve been asked how I get my flesh tones Ė more specifically, Northern European flesh tone. It is mostly a factor of getting some early vital training, working for decades in natural light and from life, and of course endless practice. However, over the past month Iíve been amusing myself by trying to work out a simple basic formula that might help some of you. Today I did a little experimental oil painting and took photos.

    My demonstration panel is a piece of 6x8 inch ABS plastic material. I carefully sanded the shiny surface off, then toned it with a little Mars Black thinned with odorless mineral spirit and alkyd resin. I let these panels dry as long as possible.

    ABS is far superior to hardboard with acrylic gesso, and if the painting doesnít work out, I can simply sand it off and paint a new one.

    For practice work, I recommend ABS (I get it at a plastic wholesaler), or frosted Mylar, or high quality tracing paper. I did most of my early practice work on tracing paper. It doesnít need to be prepared and the paint doesnít soak through.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com


  2. Hide this ad by registering as a member
  3. The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  4. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    My medium is simply linseed oil. Nothing else. I keep it in an eyedropper bottle. Walnut oil is another very good oil. Iím not using resins or any fancy mediums currently.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  6. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    I rubbed the linseed oil over the panel with my fingers. It wonít poison me.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  8. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    I wanted only the lightest film of oil on the panel, so I followed up the rub-in with a quick wipe with a paper towel.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  10. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    I added a little linseed oil to some of the stiffer colors. If I do my preparations right, I wonít need to add any additional oil or medium as I paint. My colors are the best I can buy, but I wouldnít worry too much about paint brands and until youíve mastered your craft, in fact, I wouldnít use the most expensive ones.

    I mixed the oil into the colors using my painting knife, and then transfered the result to my palette.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  12. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    The colors are:
    Titanium White, Ivory Black, Transparent Earth Red (sometimes called Transparent Red Oxide) Raw Umber.

    The grey is my special flesh tone I invented to save time. I call it Mary Sauer Flesh Color, after one of my students whose delicate pale flesh inspired it. It consists of Titanium white darkened with Raw Umber, to which Iíve added Terre Verte.

    Next is Yellow Ochre, and then a darker flesh color made of Gamblinís Caucasian Flesh Tone to which I added more Yellow Ochre and a little more Cadmium Red Light. Then follows Gamblinís Caucasian Flesh Tone. For those of you who cannot get Gamblin Oils, the color is merely Titanium White to which Yellow Ochre has been added until you get a light yellow. Then add tiny bits of Cadmium Red Light and be careful. The red has a lot of tinting power and itís easy to add too much and make this color too pink.

    Next is Cadmium Red Light. Iíve learned to squeeze out very little color when I know I wonít need much of it. Then Permanent Alizarin Crimson, then a little Permanent Sap Green, and finally a little Ultramarine Blue. I donít think Iíll be using the blue in this demo, so this is just an in case color.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  14. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    I use old telephone books to wipe my brushes. I got this idea from Ken Davies in his still life painting book from the 1970ís. Itís saved me billions of dollars.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  15. The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  16. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    Rather than use my own reference material for this demo, I took advantage of the Internet and cropped and converted a shot to black and white from the mjranum stock photo site on Deviant Art here. http://mjranum-stock.deviantart.com/gallery/

    The figure shots are excellent and large for download and printing. I got it in the Classical Nudes section, and itís labeled dancers 1. Usually I do head demos, but I thought a torso might be more useful. I donít need the color, so I made a black and white print. I think there is a whole section on Concept Art featuring useful figure reference sites.

    I always try and use the biggest brush I can. I employ a Trekell long filbert #6 here. I think of my drawing as an armature. I try and get the big angles and shapes first. The oiled surface of the panel helps the brush glide. This is easier than drawing with a pencil! I like to work with a very light touch.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  17. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  18. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    About 45 minutes later, I had the drawing down well enough. My paint consisted of Raw Umber and Transparent Earth Red. Raw Umber is a fast drier and I add it to as many paint mixtures as possible to speed drying.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  19. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  20. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    I mixed Titanium White with a tiny bit of Yellow Ochre for my lightest highlights and put them on. Then I mixed a little of my darker flesh tone into my Mary Sauer Flesh tone and did some quick modeling with it. Then I mixed a background color of white, Raw Umber and Sap Green to give me a nice cool neutral around the figures.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  21. The Following User Says Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:


  22. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    281
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 799 Times in 161 Posts
    Then I mixed a lighter flesh made of Mary Sauer and Caucasian Flesh Tone. I laid it on and made a few variations by changing the proportions of those two colors. I also mixed a ruddier color from Caucasian Flesh plus a tiny bit of Cadmium Red Light.

    I think this is enough to show you where itís going. Oil paint is much less messy than acrylics and almost as tidy as watercolors. I only rarely clean my brush out in my mineral spirits pot. Usually I just wipe my brush mostly clean with the paint rag I drape over my right thigh as I sit at the easel.

    I might take this up in a few days and add a bit more too it. I like translucent/transparent colors and I like brushwork. Itís better if I stop before I think I should so as not to wreck the good parts. If I were to do one more thing to this demo, it would be to lighten most of the darker values a little.
    William Whitaker
    www.williamwhitaker.com

  23. The Following 11 Users Say Thank You to William Whitaker For This Useful Post:

    + Show/Hide list of the thanked


  24. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    150
    Thanks
    117
    Thanked 50 Times in 44 Posts
    AWESOME thanks bill.
    Simplify
    Sketchbook

  25. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    San Francisco
    Posts
    2,033
    Thanks
    3,765
    Thanked 1,054 Times in 586 Posts
    Thanks for this, Bill, I've been wrestling with flesh tones lately so this was extremely helpful!

  26. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    1,008
    Thanks
    175
    Thanked 700 Times in 293 Posts
    Fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to put this together. There's some great info here.

  27. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    ILLINOIS the land of lincoln
    Posts
    2,296
    Thanks
    1,583
    Thanked 310 Times in 306 Posts
    Lovely post Mr. Whitaker, thanks of sharing.

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. William Whitaker Classical Painting Workshop
    By William Whitaker in forum Education & Schools for Artists
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: November 9th, 2011, 11:30 AM
  2. Help! Painting good, fat, flesh tone!
    By Racasdorph in forum Art Discussions
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: March 6th, 2011, 11:55 AM
  3. Oil Painting Process: William Whitaker Oil Painting Demonstration
    By William Whitaker in forum ART TUTORIALS, ART TIPS & ART TRICKS - ARCHIVE
    Replies: 59
    Last Post: November 7th, 2009, 09:23 PM
  4. painting flesh
    By Pierce in forum Painter
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: September 25th, 2004, 11:43 PM

Members who have read this thread: 0

There are no members to list at the moment.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Developed Actively by the makers of the Best Amazon Podcast