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Thread: Digital Painting In PS #2
April 1st, 2008 #560
ok, i normally i shy away from giving crits but i think crits are just as important to this thread as the artwork. SO....
cadenza i like the texture you've created but the part where the stem dips into the apple should look like it's dipping in to the apple. it just looks like it's floating on top there.
jamesy your apple looks good too, but i think you might have the same problem as me with the cast shadows. it looks a little dark and a bit in the wrong position perhaps? maybe it's too large? i'm not sure.
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Jamesy - it looks pretty good but I think you need to more accurately gauge your values (I have this problem too, heavily) You have VERY light shadows.
April 1st, 2008 #562Registered User
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LAKE, thank you for the push in the and the critical direction so far... you got me to take a second look...
April 1st, 2008 #563
April 1st, 2008 #564
So I had two apples, therefore I did the other one today. This time around was more frustrating since I wanted it to turn out better than the last. There was also a different lighting arrangement than last time. I think the last one was done in somewhat dim light while this one was done during the day with natural lighting. I tried to improve upon the colors and values in this one, so hopefully those aspects turned out better. I'm working on a laptop and I noticed the screen was tilted at an angle which caused me to see more contrast in value last night. I just realized that I was pretty red happy with the shadow. Thanks to everyone who commented, I tried to take it into account going into this one.
April 1st, 2008 #565
great jamesy! also if you want have some more fun with it, you can take into consideration the surface that the apple is on. Think about the reflected light. For instance, if the table is blue, maybe some color from the table is bounced onto your apple.
Also, i work on a laptop too, and if my screen is tilted too far from my eye, i see things in extreme contrast and it screws up my work too. so i take care to make sure my screen is adjusted before i work. keep it up!
April 2nd, 2008 #566Registered User
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i wont give up.... ever.... LAKE, i wish i had a clue as to what you were talking about... i know nothing about artistic terms
April 2nd, 2008 #567
Joe Brown I love that your doing these portraits, don't be afraid to draw or paint any subject, BUT what Lake is trying to say is that if you start with simpler objects you'll be able to paint faces.
First of all, your faces are very flat, and it shows that you lack a grasp of using light and shadow to show volume. The nose and other parts of the face aren't quite 'popping' out. In fact compare your portraits to Lake's portrait in this thread and you will see what I'm talking about.
There are some links listed on the first page of this thread, that discuss this. And i don't mean to be mean but your portraits all look so different; as if some are actually paint overs of photos and others are done with your own hand. I tried to find a still life that you've done so that i could show you examples of light, shadow and volume on your own work but all I find is a pic of bananas, which well... also looks like a paint over. Again I don't want to be an ass but if you want to really learn take the crits into consideration.
Last edited by eskanto; April 2nd, 2008 at 03:49 PM.
April 2nd, 2008 #568
Eskanto--Yeah, I should find some colorful contruction paper to set my apple on next time. I've been using some loose computer paper for these studies. Thank for the advice!
This probably isn't a very good question for this thread, but I'm wondering what pixel size is good to start off with? I don't think it matters for the first 3 steps, but when I go into detailing (especially the stem area), I can't seem to get too far with it because it gets quite fuzzy due to the small pixel size of the canvas. I noticed Bumskee's onion on the first page and I don't think there's anyway I could reach that level of detailing with what I'm working with now. Any advice is greatly apprecciated.
April 2nd, 2008 #569
well i'm not an expert, i've been using painter for just under a year and there is still so much i don't get. what i do however, is just work with a really big canvas size. when i'm in the beginning stages of doing my still life; blocking in large shapes and such, i work with the canvas at like 50%. when i want to do more details (and to be honest i tend not to put in a lot of detail, i'm trying to get better though) i bring the canvas back to 100% or about 100%. at least that's how i avoid that pixelly, fuzzy confusion when i want to do small details.
i make sure that even when the canvas is at 50% it's still pretty large. eeek! does that answer your question? someone else may be able to give you more info.
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April 2nd, 2008 #570
Jamesy: Take a look at this link. http://www.conceptart.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=121536
Sir, are you classified as human?
Negative, I am a meat popsicle.
April 2nd, 2008 #571
edit: WinstonSmith's link has some really good points that I've added below.
For print, most printers print at either 150, 200, or 300 dpi.
-If you're just doing this for a sketch, 72 dpi is fine (since that's what we see at screen res)
-150 dpi is fairly standard and to print at 8.5x11" you need to work at around 1300x1700
-I personally like to begin around 2000x3000, but sometimes if I know I want to hang this on my wall (like the portrait below) I up it to the point where it'll print at 18x24" (5400x7200)
Secondly, you need to consider which version of photoshop you're using. I find that any version before CS will run smoothly on just about any computer, but if you're using one of the Creative Suite editions, you may want to lower the resolution to decrease lag time.
Another serious point to take into consideration is the power of your computer. Again, if you're doing this for print, you'll want to work at as high a resolution as possible but for sketching and practice (the apples and such) you really need to consider what your computer can HANDLE. I'm writing this while using Photoshop CS3.
-If you have less than a gig of RAM, then it'll be really difficult to work at any resolution higher than 2000x3000, and even then that may lag. One way to counter this is to use brushes with high spacing, as this allows the computer to track fewer instances of the brush.
-From 1 gig to 2 gigs of RAM, You can really work up to 7200px per side without trouble, but larger poster sized stuff might cause problems.
-Anything higher than 2 gigs of RAM should run smooooooth unless you're using some cracked out 700 px textured brush.
"As for the size, it's always good to work at a higher size than you intend to actually use. If your computer could handle it, then double the size would be great, but even a third greater (3300x5100 pixels. 3300/3 & 5100/3 = 1100x1700. Add it all up and you end up at 14.667x22.667 inches) gives you a bit of extra room to get in close and work with your details without having to worry about being pixel-perfect, as working at your printing res would entail. Then when you're done you can just (in Photoshop) do Image > Image Size and enter in the values you'd like to print at and it'll scale it down for you.
Whichever way you choose, if you want to see what the result will be looking like when printed while you're actually painting, being zoomed at 25% (24 really) is what it ends up looking like at 300dpi. So at 150 it'd be 50% (48%) zoom. (I say the rounded up versions because it's just easier and quicker to get to using the keyboard shortcuts Ctrl+ +/-)"
April 2nd, 2008 #572
- Mon donnie,
- Koan Ego,
- Starter Pack,
- Mr Rewtatron,
- Nin Jackson,
- tyrant monkey,
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- Tex McCranie,
- Black Spot,
- Kelvin Liew,
- Zewar Fadhil,