Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 61 to 90 of 121
  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    First, I used the needle nosed pliers, and made a loop on one end of a rather long length of .025" music wire. I probably used about a 10" lengh of wire so I knew I wouldn't run out, and it makes it easier to loop if you have a lot of overhead. Just be careful not to poke yourself in the eye as you wrap it.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis


  2. Hide this ad by registering as a member
  3. #62
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    I would recommend drawing out the shape and size of the rake head you're going for before you cut the think wire. Then, Wherever there is a bend in the drawing, put a mark down the length of the .04" wire, so you know where that needs to be bent after the wire is wrapped. These will also be visual indicators of when you may need to start wrapping the wire tighter or looser, which I'll explain later.

    Look at the drawing below for reference...each "side" of the drawing corresponds to a mark on the wire. This will tell you all you need to know about the length and bend placements for the thicker, main wire. So, mark it off and cut it to length.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    If you can't directly cut through the wire with cutters, you can just pinch as hard as you can, and bend the wire back and forth, and eventually it will break off. That's what I did for these, because I didn't want to set up the Dremmel to cut them.

    One important thing to note here, is that once the wire was marked and cut, I LEFT IT STRAIGHT! Don't begin to bend it into the shape you want until it is fully wrapped.

    So, before wrapping, I put the .04" music wire into the loop we made earlier and pinched it closed with the wider pliers. This will help the wires hold onto each other as you begin to wrap them.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    I found the wider plier are better for trying to pinch corners of things tighter. There's more surface area for them to grip the wire with. Once you have the thicker wire threaded through the loop and pinched tightly on it, just grip it with the pliers, and start wrapping the wire by hand. There's no real trick to this part. Just make sure your fingers are pretty tough, if not, they will be by the end of it.

    You can see the final rake tools in (C).

    You can see with the smaller end that I used really tight coils for the main lengths of the loop, and looser for the parts that will go into the handles. This was just to give me a break from wrapping so tightly all the time. I knew where it would need to be wrapped tighter because of the markings I had measured out based on the drawing. Finally a good idea after many failures.

    The tool on the left is a rougher rake for initial smoothing, and the smaller one is much finer to finish it even more.

    Let me know if anything is unclear. Thanks, and keep going!
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Alright, so after my little mishap with the polyurethane and stain, I had to recut some dowels. I used the circular cut and snapping method I posted earlier on to get them to size. Then, depending on the tip you want to create, there are two methods. Here's the first:

    Basically, I just put the dremel's sanding bit on, and tried to keep it at a consistent level down the dowel's shaft, about the width of the sanding bit, and just shave off wood in a circular pattern, going around the dowel. This will make a little peg on the tip. Then, I moved further down the shaft, and do the same, but I don't sand it down as far. You can see the progression below.

    This technique seems good for creating more unique ends or ones where the taper may need to be more drastic. It allows you to block in the taper, then clean it up later on. Look below and let me know if you have any questions.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    This second method allowed me to get a much more controlled, consistent taper to the end of the dowel. I found that using the above method, I had some difficulty keeping the peg portion I was making in the center of the dowel.

    For this technique, I tried to mimick an actual lathe more or less. I kept the Dremel tool stationary, held the dowel at the angle to the surface I wanted the taper to be, and simply rotated the dowel slowly. This kept the cutting to a more consistent depth, and allowed for a more controlled, subtle gradation down the shaft. I made a .gif to illustrate my point.

    In the first image, I'm starting out at the very edge of the dowel. You can still see the peg portion I broke off from earlier. Then I progressively move down the shaft, rotating only the dowel, until I finish off the tip in image 7. Let me know if something's unclear. Thanks.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Here are some pics and a close-up of the final tools with the wires epoxied into them. For all the triangular and angled ones, I just bent the wire with pliers. Nothing fancy. I tried putting nails into boards and bending them around those, as well as other methods, but this seemed to work the best. All of these were made using the .025" music wire. Once I had these shaped out, I drilled holes in the ends of the dowels with the Dremel, mixed up the epoxy and stuck them in. The only tricky thing I found with the epoxy, is that if you don't mix it well, at a 1:1 ration, it won't harden correctly. The glue will stay rather gummy unless its mixed fully. If it is, then it cures rock solid.Let me know if you guys want pics and a tutorial showing those steps, but I thought it would be pretty self-explanatory.

    I got a little experimental too with the shapes. But I found they make for really nice finger grips, and started adding them into all the shafts I was making. I still have to coat them in polyurethane, but now I have something to hang them by.

    The thicker tools are made from 1/2" dowels, and the smaller are from 3/8" dowels.
    Last edited by molemansd7; July 25th, 2007 at 10:41 PM.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    And here are some other shafts I made just to play around with the remaining dowel rods I had. I have yet to make wire tips for them, but I figured I'll do that once I know just what I'll need. Its just fun to make pretty shapes.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Alright, my first few tools are now done. I'll put a pick up tomorrow sometime. The only other thing I had still to do with them since the last pics were to sand them down with the fine grit paper from before (320) and sprayed them with Minwax Polyurethane (pictured below). This made the application incredibly simple...no drips, no mess. The can only costs about $6, but can do a lot of tools.

    Since I had already put the wire ends in the tools, I just put a lump of clay onto a board, shoved one end into the clay, standing them vertically, covered the exposed end with scotch tape, and sprayed to my hearts content. I put 3 coats on, allowing about a half hour to 45 min. drying time. That's all there is for the wood ones. Next, I'll show you the process for soldering the rakes I made into the brass handles.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    42
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Wow, who knew there were this many tool fetishists out there!

    Great stuff, but remember guys, don't spend so much time making tools and handles that you never get around to sculpting!

    That said, a well-made tool will last a long time. I still have a few of the first tools I ever made from scratch many years ago.
    "Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it."
    -- Goethe

    Visit my online portfolio: Dan Perez Studios

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Wow, I had no idea this was a fetish...

    Anyway, I sanded them down a bit more and sprayed them with the polyurethane...here's the result. I'll get the brass rake tool tut up asap too...just gimme a couple days.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    143
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
    I have a very good friend that makes tools to sell ,in case you might not have the time,he's a professional makeup artist .check out KensTools.com

    He is an extremely nice hombre,his are the only bought tools I use/have.they work really well.
    I really like the stuff you guys have posted so far though.it's very informative thanx.

    It's also great to see that Dan Perez studios have joined.I'm a very big fan of your work!!
    it's very humbling to see so many awesome artists in the forums.I look forward to seeing more of your work displayed here as well.
    It's better to be remembered as the sand in the gears and not as the oil.

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Hey Shrader,
    so, I've been able to finish the wooden tools, and have done a few of the ones with brass handles (primarily the rakes), but I've been having some issues getting the solder to fill in the end of the tubing evenly, and without moving the wire. Any tips on how to do that? I'm thinking the tube may be too large of a diameter. I know you used 5/32" tubing...have you had any luck with bigger tools?
    Last edited by molemansd7; August 10th, 2007 at 10:51 AM.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    24
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Cool tools.

    I made one that's kind of for quick scratching.
    Take some plastic coated copper wire (the one with lots of wires in it) and you strip it about 1/4"-1/2" down then glue it inside a metal pipe. Crimping it would probably work, too.

  16. #75
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    179
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
    that's an extremely interesting tool.
    nice work

  17. #76
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    33
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts
    Hey MoleMan,

    I'm sorry guys but I have not forgotten you! I was in a car accident about a month ago and had a pretty bad shoulder injury. I'm just now 4 days post-op and I'm not a happy camper! I don't like pain! LOL!!! (i'm having to type with one finger!)

    I will get around to making the soldering WIP after some rehab.

    Let's see if I can steer you in the right direction though. Ok, here's what works for me. Oatey brand Safe Flo Silver Lead free solder and a good ACID flux. I have tried a nice soldering iron but a torch works much better.

    When I make the wire part of the tool I spread it's little legs so that I really have to work to get it in the end of the brass tubing. I find that trimming one leg shorter than the other an slipping it in first works easier. This spring like action is what helps hold the wire in place while I solder.

    Next, I place the brass tubing with the wire in place into my little vice horizontally with the wire end raised ever so slightly. Not much, just enough to coax the hot solder to flow back into the tubing. If you have too much of an angle, it will just roll further back into the tubing without filling the tip. DO NOT TRY TO REPOSITION THE TUBING BEFORE YOU LET IT COOL COMPLETELY! Sometimes if the tip does not want to fill, I will let the tubing cool for awhile and then add some more solder. It won't take much to hold the wire.

    I use an almost liquid ACID flux that I apply with a small brush that will fit in the end of the brass tubing. Heat the tubing slowly. When you think it's ready bring the apex of the blue flame to the opening of the tubing and start adding some solder. Should go right in!

    WEAR GOGGLES! PLACE SOMETHING BELOW YOU OTHER THAN YOUR LEG TO CATCH ANY FALLING SOLDER!

    Soldering the other end is the same except you have to drill a tiny hole in the side of the brass tubing about 1/4 of an inch away from the end of the tubing to allow the hot gases to escape! Otherwise it will heat up and blow hot solder right in your face!!!!!! WEAR GOGGLES!!!!!!! The hole should fill with solder and you can sand it flush if it bothers you or I just shave it off with an exacto.

    My finger is tired! LOL!!

    Hope this helped!

    Ray

  18. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Wow man, I'm sorry to hear that. Bad wrecks can be really scary. I was in one a few years ago...not fun. Hopefully you'll heal quickly. Take care sir.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  19. #78
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Did you see the Detailer tool on my website ?

    ---edit---

    http://delminiatures.com

    The tool is a manufactured version of this
    Image is too big ... it distort the forum ... made a link ...
    http://www.ringert.com/sculpting/pencil_tool.jpg
    Last edited by Delminiatures; September 9th, 2007 at 11:15 PM.

  20. #79
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Nice little tool and carrying case too. Can you just slide the tools in the front as you would a refill of lead, or do you have to unscrew the tip of the pencil, and take it off in order to switch tools? I'm just curious. Can you post any more info about the process, possibly some pics?

    -mole
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  21. #80
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Will do later this week ... Got to take pictures of it.

  22. #81
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    33
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts
    Hey Delminiatures,
    This is great idea! I had seen this idea in another forum a few years ago and I had tried it using a Koh-i-noor Technigraph lead holder. It worked really well but I soon placed all of my tips into wooden handles because I got tired of looking for and changing the tips. It's easier for ME to pick up a separate tool "ready for use" without distracting me from my work. This would make a great traveling tool though!

    Ray

  23. #82
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    That is the intention. Travelling tool and a fine detailer tool. I will have to make a 2 head tool tho. I don't know how to do that but I will have to see how.

    Simon

  24. #83
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Great stuff... Here is a video I found on making a stand
    http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...97844707&hl=en

  25. The Following User Says Thank You to indigoRobin For This Useful Post:


  26. #84
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    15
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts

    Dental Wires

    Anyone has try dental wire, they have in many thicknesses, antioxide steel, and they are not expensive, you can find these in any dental store.

  27. #85
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    220
    Thanks
    18
    Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
    cool way to make your tools ! verry unique

  28. #86
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    this post very useful...Thanks for sharing
    :-)

  29. #87
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    Hey All, sorry for the uber-months delay, but a lot's been going on. My building at work burned down, and we were in temp space when I last posted. We've since moved into our original building, and I just moved last month. So, most of my stuff has been boxed up and awaiting enough room and time to be uncorked. So, once things get settled a bit more, I'll be back in touch with some more pics and such of soldering metal tools. Thanks for your patience, and sorry for the delay.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

  30. #88
    Doggy's Avatar
    Doggy is offline Doin´it for fun, hoping to get better...
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    212
    Thanks
    20
    Thanked 37 Times in 37 Posts
    Great thread guys! I usually just bend a piece of wire and tape it to the back of a paintbrush, but i suppose more ergonomic and lasting tools is the way to go=)

  31. #89
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Very good thread,
    I have a selection of store bought tools, including a set of stainless-steel modelling tools.

    Most of what I use on my clay are all wood, and these are usually pretty cheap to just buy, but I like to make a few of my own mostly with ridges or "teeth" on the flat bladed ends, so I just band saw and then shape a piece of hard maple at work on the wide belt sander or spindle sander to what I want, and then cut V grooves with a triangular file.

    I paste wax the wood after they are sanded smooth and done, you'd be amazed how abrasive water based clay can be even though it feels smooth, it rapidly wears the edges off even stainless steel.

  32. #90
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    104
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 8 Times in 2 Posts
    So, finally moved in and settled, and we survived the flooding here as of late, and I managed to ind my clay that was lost in a box somewhere for a good long while. Inspired by the find, I broke out my tools again to try and figure out the soldering bit previously mentioned. Unfortunately, I still can't get a nice even application like RSchrader got with his. My solder keeps falling down the tube. I'll see if I can figure out a good technique for it and let you all know.

    Or, perhaps Schrader could help us out...

    ps...hope you're feeling better from the accident.
    "You do not have a soul. You are a soul. You have a body." ::c.s. lewis

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Sculpture: Making keys?
    By Nadesican in forum Art Discussions
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: May 18th, 2013, 04:08 AM
  2. Art: COBRA sculpture (nearly 2YRS! in the making!)
    By fruitdot in forum 3D Art, Sculpture & Toy Art
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: October 1st, 2010, 01:42 AM
  3. Art: Need advice regarding making a prototype sculpture for a client.
    By ebonyraven in forum 3D Art, Sculpture & Toy Art
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: May 21st, 2010, 07:00 AM
  4. Drawing tools and questions about these tools!!!
    By Peter Berkovski in forum Artist Lounge
    Replies: 57
    Last Post: February 19th, 2008, 04:09 PM
  5. Art: The tools u use
    By Sik-Styles in forum Fine Art
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: June 10th, 2005, 10:31 PM

Members who have read this thread: 8

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Developed Actively by the makers of the Best Amazon Podcast