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Jeff Gran
January 12th, 2005, 05:57 PM
Ron Lemen (FredFlickstone) is a great teacher. When was lecturing at the workshop, he really lit up, and you could feel him trying with all his might to infuse as much information as he could into the gawking crowd. He would talk a mile a minute and draw (or paint) at the same time, which to me is amazing in itself.

So I decided I would try to retell some of what I learned, for those who didn't make it and those who did but missed it.


First is the portrait drawing.
So here's a quick visual aid I made, and below is the explanations:

http://jboy.menlofarms.net/stuff/PortraitTutorial.jpg

(1) Start with some sort of a gesture. Ron didn't start with the outside of the head, like a lot of people (me included) do. He said to start with a prominent feature, something that grabs your immediate attention when you look at the model. That will be where the "essence" of the person shows through. Also, make these "feature(s)" that you draw be 3D volumes, not just lines. Ron says the trick to getting a likeness is in the shapes of the volumes of the head you're drawing.

(2) There are then 3 main contours that you need to draw to set the head in place. The first is the outside of the head, including the hair (if there is any).

(3) The second is the hairline -- across the forehead and around the ear.

(4) The third is the centerline, down the center of the face, going over all the volumes that rest there.

(5) Pick out the other volumes on the face: the glabella (not shown) the "tooth cylinder", the balls of the eyes, etc. find the rhythms of the face. If you get all the volumes and the rhythms in there correctly, you just add the features (eyes, nose, lips) at the end, and that will be the easiest part, because there's only one place they can go.

(6) Then do the rendering, with whatever technique you're using.

Other notes:

-if you're making a finished piece, do the first five steps really lightly.

-if you're doing it for practice, memorize the process, and memorize how the shapes lock together, memorize specific shapes of features that strike you, so that you'll remember them and use them later to strike someone else with the same feeling. The more you practice the process, the more it becomes second nature, and you won't even need the 'training wheels' anymore. But you'll never be able to do it without the structure unless you do it a ton of times with the structure.


I hope all the information here is sound. Ron (or anyone else), if you see this and have anything to change or add please do change or add it. As I said, I was one that needed this advice, so I don't really feel qualified to teach it, but I'm just trying to pass on what I gleaned.



Anyone else want to do another one? There were tons of demos and conversations going on that only a select few heard or were involved in. How about we share the wealth?

Madman!
January 12th, 2005, 06:10 PM
Did he say this was like a new technique he was using? one the other demo on the site it sounds like he starts with the shape of the head first. I like the idea of making a guesture first I never tried that, I always use the egg shape and then fill in the middle.

thanks for posting this!

zandernice
January 13th, 2005, 01:34 AM
...I just want to say huge thank you to Mr. Lemon. The information he passed on was invaluable and he made it so easy to understand. He has a great ability to teach art. I attend the academy of art in SF, and have yet to have a teacher that transfers his knowledge to the students as well as he does. so Thanks

Layil
January 13th, 2005, 02:25 AM
wow Jeff thank you. I managed to miss that leacture. thanks alot for posting the info. and of course thanks to Ron for being there at all!

Dimitih
January 13th, 2005, 11:06 AM
Jeff, thanks so much - this is one lecture I really wanted to see, but somehow I managed to miss it. It is very nice of you to share this info with all the rest of us.

I can't believe I missed Ron's presentation - I'm such an idiot :nohope:

-MonkeyBoy-
January 13th, 2005, 12:47 PM
Ron totally rocked - he is a fantastic teacher and I loved just listening to his crits of other people's work - he could really hone in on one or two things for people to work on, whatever their level. Watching him and Jason Manley go tag-team on color theory was one of the highlights of the weekend.

One cool thing I got from that (I think this was them): if your piece is primarily in light, put detail in the light and less in the shadows. Similarly if your piece is primarily dark, put details in the shadows and not in the light. This simulates the action of the eye adapting to the total light level. It seems obvious when you think of it, but when your actually looking in the light or shadow your own eye adapts and you see all the details so you end up putting detail in both and it flattens the picture.

Thanks again guys - what a great experience!

[edit] p.s. it would be really cool if people posted lots of the things they learned here - even if you were there there was no way you could even see half of what was going on. Share the love people! :bashful:

Jeff Gran
January 13th, 2005, 03:50 PM
Cool, I'm glad some people found that useful. Here's some of what I remember from Jason's color theory talks:

-The first thing to think about when doing a color rendering is: What color is my light, and where is it coming from? This will dictate all the colors you use in the piece.

-The second thing to consider is how you want to structure your colors. This will dictate the mood of the piece. Every color has 3 properties: Temperature, Saturation, and Value. (Me being a computer guy, I used to think hue was the important part... but Jason stressed that your *relative* warmth and coolness is really what makes a difference... The overall hue is just basically the local color...) So you have to make a decision as to the three properties of your lights and darks will be. Examples:

Saturated Lights/Unsaturated Darks or vice versa
Warm Lights/Cool Darks or vice versa

-Keep in mind that these color structures can be different for different areas of the painting, or different objects in the painting, etc. They are not hard and fast rules. But playing these opposites off each other will result in a more dynamic and interesting piece.

While Jason was giving this lecture, JP was on the other side of the room doing a digital demo, and Jason says: "Look at what JP's doing over there. On the arm he's got saturated lights and unsaturated darks. But down on the leg he has unsaturated lights and saturated darks. He's playing a piano over there!"

And like Monkeyboy said, make conscious choices about where to put your detail in, otherwise it will get too "busy".




Anyone want to whip up some examples of this? I'm would but it would be like the blind leading the blind... I don't want to confuse anyone.


Also, I couldn't really hear what Ron was saying during this part. Anyone want to recap?

Jeff