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View Full Version : creating a sculpey toy with detachable / re-attachable limbs. how?

italianice388
November 12th, 2009, 03:35 PM
i'd like to make a toy with which i can snap of arms and switch them out with different ones whenever. what can i use to do this that will not compromise the integrity of the sculpey when i snap in and snap out? thanks!
Darkwulf's Talon
November 12th, 2009, 06:40 PM
The most common form of this is ball and joint style linking. However the joint poses a problem when casting as you will still have a large section of silicone mold in a small hole.

I am afriad as yet I have not figured out a way around this apart from using a VERY strong and flexible silicone.....
Kaledrub
November 14th, 2009, 01:51 PM
Some sort of steel screw and nuts...?
Using powerful magnets like those from old HD disks...?
Jimmi_B
December 1st, 2009, 03:24 AM
what about square brass piping?
it wouldn't 'snap' together but would allow for the joining.
and the screw and nut idea kaledrub mentioned could work screw in the torso nuts in teh extremities
frikafrax
December 1st, 2009, 08:26 AM
As Kaledrub already suggested, magnets could be a possible solution either used solely or to help reinforce another kind of limb joinery.

I'd suggest using neodymium magnets, also known as "rare earth magnets" or "NIB magnets" (Nickel Iron Boron).

Rare earth magnets can be exceptionally strong for their size and are inexpensive. For example, a rare earth magnet as small as 3/8" dia. x 3/16" thick, when sandwiched between two steel plates, can take up to 9lbs of pull force before disengaging.

Mileage may vary depending on how the magnets are mated to surfaces but suffice to say, they're quite strong.

I've ordered magnets from here (http://www.kjmagnetics.com/) for incorporation in resin model figure kits to facilitate accessory swapping and disassembly for storage and transport.
Darkwulf's Talon
December 1st, 2009, 04:40 PM
I figured out the ball and joint problem.

If you make the joints in the model but then split the model in two before casting this will allow you to cast only half of the ball joint at a time. You then simply join the two casts back together, et voila, one complete ball joint in a casted model.