Acceptable PH Levels for Seal Coats

[Rabid]

For final coats over a piece. What is the most ideal PH? If not ideal, what range of the PH scale is degenerate for posterboard or paper material? My seal coat is 5.5 (about the strength of coffee)...is this safe for a final coat?

[dark eagle]

I'd go for a neutral just to be on the safe side, which is 7.

[Rabid]

looks like I may have to add a little baking soda to the mix....

[dbclemons]

I saw this Krylon Acid Free Spray (http://www.krylon.com/products/make_it_acidfree)at an art store recently. Didn't buy it, but thought it looked interesting. There are other similar sprays from We-To (http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/product_specific.cfm?ClientID=15&ProductID=17224) or Bookeeper (http://www.archivalsuppliers.com/prodinfo.asp?number=214-BOOK).

[dark eagle]

Acid free doesn't mean safe, it could still have high levels of alkaline which would do the same as acid only a different way

[Elwell]

Rabid, what exactly are you using, on what surface and what medium(s)?

[dbclemons]

Acid free doesn't mean safe, it could still have high levels of alkaline which would do the same as acid only a different way

If what you mean by "same" is staining or embrittlement, that's incorrect. Alkali bases are often used for bleaching paper. It doesn't pose any danger to wood pulp or rag paper, in fact it's an improvement, increasing permanence. I believe the Kylon product uses caclium carbonate which is quite safe.

For reference:
http://aic.stanford.edu/sg/bpg/annual/v09/bp09-04.html

[Rabid]

Rabid, what exactly are you using, on what surface and what medium(s)?

Well Elwell, (mouthfull)

I have recently been working with a new approach in inking my work, I attached a few examples of some simple scrap piece studies I did of skulls a while back. The process begins with hot press poster board. I sketch, then do a line inking. This is where the tricky part comes in. The black line ink is not water proof. Since the rest of the ink that will be applied later (higgins colored waterproof ink), I need a barrier. So currently for some of these I have been using a clear coat shellac (simple shellac found in any hardware store) that is immediatly squeegeed off after application. This forms a smooth barrier that I can paint the other ink over. (note: If you don't squeegee most of the shellac off it dries too thick and will bead any ink you put over it. So far I havn't found a workable barrier acrylic spray that will hold down the line work over several wet brush applications except for this one. But before I progress to larger pieces. I want to be sure that it won't ruin them...Here are a few examples...

I don't know if you need facebook to view but my video process is on here as well...

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=512568272570

Needless to say, I want to get this clarified before I begin using this overlay technique on my larger pieces 30x40, 40 x 60 etc. I am very satisfied with the results but this is a long term background check....the skulls may look ruff but the poster board actually stays quite smooth, these studies are only about the size of the palm of your hand....

[Elwell]

Two possibilities:
If you want to keep with the shellac, you can make your own so that it's fresher and higher quality. You could also control the strength of the cut so that it's not so thick and can be brushed on more simply.
Or, you could try Krylon Crystal Clear. Just make sure you use it outside or with very good ventilation, as the fumes are nasty.

[Craig D]

Couldn't you just use waterproof ink?

[Qitsune]

I was thinking exactly the same as Craig actually, it might save you lots of work.

[Rabid]

Tried it but the quality is terrible in comparison, (higgens black always came out seemingly diluted, not a true black) not to mention the clean up of my rapidographs is nigh impossible....but yes I did try that for almost a year. Lost about 4 pens to it. Even with my ultrasonic cleaner and specialized pen cleaners and pumps...

Elwell, if your certain that it wouldn't bead the next coat I may have to try that krylon. Or as you said fuss around with the shellac myself. Thanks Dad.... Although I must say I don't know what kind of territory I'm getting into if I start adding a base to an acid. Baking soda seems to be the choice. Anythign that doesn't take away from the transparent nature....Looks like I might need to find a close friend at Sherwin Williams lmao....

[Anid Maro]

Tried it but the quality is terrible in comparison, (higgens black always came out seemingly diluted, not a true black) not to mention the clean up of my rapidographs is nigh impossible....but yes I did try that for almost a year. Lost about 4 pens to it. Even with my ultrasonic cleaner and specialized pen cleaners and pumps...

Hrm. I do agree that Higgen's ink is crap, but they aren't the only brand with water-proof india ink. I've yet to try it (though it arrives next week, woot!), but I hear the Speedball brand of waterproof ink is good stuff. Beyond that there's other brands too, I think Koh-I-Noor has a waterproof india ink as well.

However I only use brushes with india ink, so I don't know whether or not your Rapidographs got gummed up because Higgen's is a shit-ball brand of ink or because waterproofed india inks in general just clog up tech pens.

Can't tell you anything about seal coats though, my knowledge of that is next to nil. Will wish you good luck however, I really like the work you posted and hope to see more.

[Elwell]

Simplest solution, if you're happy with the results you're getting: get some denatured alcohol and dilute the shellac you already have. Shellac and paper are a combo that's been used successfully for centuries, don't go screwing around trying to neutralize any acid yourself. Just start with a high quality paper in the first place.

[dbclemons]

None of the various India inks I've tried are truly waterproof, despite their labeling as such. The best performers were Speedball's Super Black or Pelican's Drawing Ink, but they can dilute also if you work over them too heavily with washes. I might suggest altering your process so that you paint the color washes over the pencils and then do your inking last.

[Rabid]

Anid Maro: Thanks for the kind words, I know for a fact that if your ink is waterproof you need to flush wash it immediatly after every sitting. There is an inevitable build up though. I have tried many no name brand inks and most I distaste but I can't say I ever tried speedball. I'll add that to my prototype list.

Elwell: Your comments give me alot of relief knowing that shellac has been used effectivly in the past and that I'm using high quality paper. I will look for the alcohol. Anyone ever see denatured alcohol in a specific store?

dbclemons: I might try one or two tests on that and see how a reverse process will work. The problem is that the details in my mind come out directly after the initial gesture sketch. It's just how my brain works. Iv'e been labelled as the human xerox machine sometimes because I always work from the focal point in detail out on my pieces and never go general inking to specific (but when I do paint overs I do)...once again I'll have to try the speedball for once. Your right about no ink being truly waterproof. The mark will be left but the line is thinned and all that excess black ink gets mixed into your other colors creating a smuged mess sometimes.